Airsoft Basics

[GARRETT]

1- The first and most important item is an gun

A few things here:
1: An LPEG, meaning anything with a plastic gearbox, is completely and utterly useless, they are usually between $20 and $60, never buy one for any reason (Well, maybe for your kid in the backyard)

2: A chiclone is any gun made in China (AEGs under $200) and are lower quality than other AEGs. It is OK and normally necessary to start with one.

3: Airsoft is ALL ABOUT UPGRADES. A stock gun is not competitive, period. If you buy a JG for ~$100 that's OK, and recomended for beginners. Instead of buying another though, buy quality upgrades from reputable companies like Systema for the gearbox. Also consider upgradeing the motor, battery, barrel, hopup unit/nub/bucking, optics, etc. Upgrades increase your range, accuracy, ROF, and durability/longevity.

4: High fps does NOT mean a good gun, usually the opposite. Remember, over 400 is semi only, and over 340 is a no go for CQB or a sidearm. FPS is based on the amount of energy the bb imparts on impact, and is actually a joule rating. It is usually listed with a .20 for a common point of reference. If you have a gun shooting 430 with a .20, and you use .25s to drop it down to 390fps, that does NOT mean it is full auto capable. It is shooting just as hard as it was, at the same joule rating.
5: Concerning bolt action "sniper rifles". They are useless unless you invest at the very LEAST $200-$300 in them, period. Do not buy one unless you are willing to do so, otherwise you will not have the range or accuracy to even remotely compete with AEGs.

6: Never use anything lighter than a 0.20 gram bb for any reason. .12s will ruin your hopup in a jiffy, jam repeatedly, spin off in wild directions (meaning you can't hit the broadside of a barn) Always use at least .20s. If your gun chronos over 350fps (FPS is based on a .20 as the standard measurement) use .25s, if over 450fps use .30s, and if over 500fps use .40s.

2- ANSI 87.1 rated eye protection. Preferably sealed goggles as most  games are now requiring them.

For those of you that sweat profusely consider buying mesh goggles/masks.

3- BBs of course. .20g or better

4- Camo is very important. Most people when they first join buy a cheap set of woodland or ACU camo from their local army surplus store.

5- Vest or some sort of load bearing kit is also very important. I would not recommend running through the woods with your spare mags in your pockets.

6- Boots  are darn near required, you can get standard army boots for $10 at Goodwill

7- Extra magazines -
Hicaps- These magazines hold around 300bb's at one time, and require you to wind them every so often.
Midcaps- typically for milsim airsofters. These mags hold around 100bb's and require no winding. You will need a speed loader in order to load them.
Realcaps or lowcaps- these are usually reserved from realmil games. They hold the exact amount that the realsteel counterparts hold (usually 30 or lower).

8- And of course a side arm.  

Remember that if you show up to an airsoft game in realtree camo, sneakers, with multicolored .12s, mags in your pockets, an LPEG or springer, etc. that's OK, you can still play the game and have fun. But understand that it is the equivalent of showing up to the Darlington Raceway in a Model T Ford, and naturally people are going to be a bit skeptical. Don't take offense, if you were in their shoes you would too. Just start investing your time and money at improving your airsoft equipment.

[Vesper]

Just to add, if you're looking for cheap competable guns, G&G Affordable Series is not a bad idea.

[Bushmaster]

I am currently saving for a G&G sportline m4 ris with marines trademarks from ASGI, can't wait til I've got the funds.

[Vesper]

I can vouch for that gun. I have it, and it is a great CQB unit. You may want to replace the hop-up bucking with Systema if you're looking for a greater range, which you may need in fields like Redfox. To be honset, 330 FPS with G&G hop-up isn't quite enough to reach up to 150 feet.

[6mmSilver]

Just a quick note: If you own some sort of claymore or maybe even a gas-powered grenade, .12 might be okay if you are looking for a good amount of bb's. However, don't get a cheap brand.

If I am wrong please correct me, but I just though I might put that out there. 

[Dominum]

@Silver:

You are right that weapons without buckings (and thus random spray patterns) can use .12s without incident for the most part, however, all .12s are "cheap" and are made of standard plastics (as opposed to polystyrene plastics) and are not allowed on many fields, and will shatter into sharp shards. Also, due to their seams they may become stuck in certain forms of grenades (Tornadoes for example).

[Straightshot]

3: Airsoft is ALL ABOUT UPGRADES. A stock gun is not competitive, period.

I have to disagree with this point.  My stock KWA G36C kicks butt and takes names.  Well, it's probably the user 

[ATAT Armorer]

I agree with straightshot.

[Arbee]

My AK is stock, and I can shoot pretty accurately from my back porch to the shed in my field.

[SteevoLS]

I don't know about you, but I can shoot from that corner to where the dog is. If the dog isn't there, I can still shoot that far.

It would be more accurate to say a low end chiclone can't compete with an upgraded gun in terms of accuracy and range. That said, if you're only 100 feet away, just about any gun will be able to hit what you point it at. However, an upgraded gun will give you a huge advantage in long range shooting. Ask anyone who's been to Saluda and tried to fight in the Killing Fields.

[GARRETT]

I don't know about you, but I can shoot from that corner to where the dog is. If the dog isn't there, I can still shoot that far.

It would be more accurate to say a low end chiclone can't compete with an upgraded gun in terms of accuracy and range. That said, if you're only 100 feet away, just about any gun will be able to hit what you point it at. However, an upgraded gun will give you a huge advantage in long range shooting. Ask anyone who's been to Saluda and tried to fight in the Killing Fields.

This is true. My stock M4 is a great gun, has good range and very tight groupings. But when I get into an open area with someone like Gambler his range will out shoot me every time.

[Gambler]

This is true. My stock M4 is a great gun, has good range and very tight groupings. But when I get into an open area with someone like Gambler his range will out shoot me every time.

I will say that I was very happy with the G&G M14 when it was stock, but since upgrading it I am much happier with it.  I think if you spend the money on a high end gun you don't really need to do much to it, but if you buy a cheap one you are going to be able to tell the difference when you get onto the field with some upgraded guns.  At Fulda Gap there were some sick guns out there that had some crazy range.

I like it when I can walk towards Garrett and know he can't reach me.

[ATAT Armorer]

Just a thought, load bearing eqiupment isn't all that important.  A camelbak is.  Sometimes I run around with just an extra mag in my pocket and my hydro.

[Gambler]

Just a thought, load bearing eqiupment isn't all that important.  A camelbak is.  Sometimes I run around with just an extra mag in my pocket and my hydro.

I must respectfully disagree here.  While I think a camelback is a must I also think that some sort of LBE is as well.  I for one wouldn't want to run around with a spare mag or two in my pocket.  When I use my M14 I only roll with 3 highcaps, but I have a belt with 2 mag pouches on it, because I don't want ot be bothered with mags possibly falling out or getting banged around in my pocket.  You can easily find LBE's for $30 or less if you look around.

[SteevoLS]

I agree with Jason here aswell; the problem with putting a mag in your pocket is this: most uniforms are cut to be a little on the loose side; if you put a mag in your pocket, it is going to bounce around a lot when you are running. There is nothing quite as annoying as swaying, bouncing gear when you're charging down a hill.