Airsoft Basics
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:39 pm
1- The first and most important item is an gun
A few things here:
1: An LPEG, meaning anything with a plastic gearbox, is completely and utterly useless, they are usually between $20 and $60, never buy one for any reason (Well, maybe for your kid in the backyard)
2: A chiclone is any gun made in China (AEGs under $200) and are lower quality than other AEGs. It is OK and normally necessary to start with one.
3: Airsoft is ALL ABOUT UPGRADES. A stock gun is not competitive, period. If you buy a JG for ~$100 that's OK, and recomended for beginners. Instead of buying another though, buy quality upgrades from reputable companies like Systema for the gearbox. Also consider upgradeing the motor, battery, barrel, hopup unit/nub/bucking, optics, etc. Upgrades increase your range, accuracy, ROF, and durability/longevity.
4: High fps does NOT mean a good gun, usually the opposite. Remember, over 400 is semi only, and over 340 is a no go for CQB or a sidearm. FPS is based on the amount of energy the bb imparts on impact, and is actually a joule rating. It is usually listed with a .20 for a common point of reference. If you have a gun shooting 430 with a .20, and you use .25s to drop it down to 390fps, that does NOT mean it is full auto capable. It is shooting just as hard as it was, at the same joule rating.
5: Concerning bolt action "sniper rifles". They are useless unless you invest at the very LEAST $200-$300 in them, period. Do not buy one unless you are willing to do so, otherwise you will not have the range or accuracy to even remotely compete with AEGs.
6: Never use anything lighter than a 0.20 gram bb for any reason. .12s will ruin your hopup in a jiffy, jam repeatedly, spin off in wild directions (meaning you can't hit the broadside of a barn) Always use at least .20s. If your gun chronos over 350fps (FPS is based on a .20 as the standard measurement) use .25s, if over 450fps use .30s, and if over 500fps use .40s.
2- ANSI 87.1 rated eye protection. Preferably sealed goggles as most games are now requiring them.
For those of you that sweat profusely consider buying mesh goggles/masks.
3- BBs of course. .20g or better
4- Camo is very important. Most people when they first join buy a cheap set of woodland or ACU camo from their local army surplus store.
5- Vest or some sort of load bearing kit is also very important. I would not recommend running through the woods with your spare mags in your pockets.
6- Boots are darn near required, you can get standard army boots for $10 at Goodwill
7- Extra magazines -
Hicaps- These magazines hold around 300bb's at one time, and require you to wind them every so often.
Midcaps- typically for milsim airsofters. These mags hold around 100bb's and require no winding. You will need a speed loader in order to load them.
Realcaps or lowcaps- these are usually reserved from realmil games. They hold the exact amount that the realsteel counterparts hold (usually 30 or lower).
8- And of course a side arm.
Remember that if you show up to an airsoft game in realtree camo, sneakers, with multicolored .12s, mags in your pockets, an LPEG or springer, etc. that's OK, you can still play the game and have fun. But understand that it is the equivalent of showing up to the Darlington Raceway in a Model T Ford, and naturally people are going to be a bit skeptical. Don't take offense, if you were in their shoes you would too. Just start investing your time and money at improving your airsoft equipment.
A few things here:
1: An LPEG, meaning anything with a plastic gearbox, is completely and utterly useless, they are usually between $20 and $60, never buy one for any reason (Well, maybe for your kid in the backyard)
2: A chiclone is any gun made in China (AEGs under $200) and are lower quality than other AEGs. It is OK and normally necessary to start with one.
3: Airsoft is ALL ABOUT UPGRADES. A stock gun is not competitive, period. If you buy a JG for ~$100 that's OK, and recomended for beginners. Instead of buying another though, buy quality upgrades from reputable companies like Systema for the gearbox. Also consider upgradeing the motor, battery, barrel, hopup unit/nub/bucking, optics, etc. Upgrades increase your range, accuracy, ROF, and durability/longevity.
4: High fps does NOT mean a good gun, usually the opposite. Remember, over 400 is semi only, and over 340 is a no go for CQB or a sidearm. FPS is based on the amount of energy the bb imparts on impact, and is actually a joule rating. It is usually listed with a .20 for a common point of reference. If you have a gun shooting 430 with a .20, and you use .25s to drop it down to 390fps, that does NOT mean it is full auto capable. It is shooting just as hard as it was, at the same joule rating.
5: Concerning bolt action "sniper rifles". They are useless unless you invest at the very LEAST $200-$300 in them, period. Do not buy one unless you are willing to do so, otherwise you will not have the range or accuracy to even remotely compete with AEGs.
6: Never use anything lighter than a 0.20 gram bb for any reason. .12s will ruin your hopup in a jiffy, jam repeatedly, spin off in wild directions (meaning you can't hit the broadside of a barn) Always use at least .20s. If your gun chronos over 350fps (FPS is based on a .20 as the standard measurement) use .25s, if over 450fps use .30s, and if over 500fps use .40s.
2- ANSI 87.1 rated eye protection. Preferably sealed goggles as most games are now requiring them.
For those of you that sweat profusely consider buying mesh goggles/masks.
3- BBs of course. .20g or better
4- Camo is very important. Most people when they first join buy a cheap set of woodland or ACU camo from their local army surplus store.
5- Vest or some sort of load bearing kit is also very important. I would not recommend running through the woods with your spare mags in your pockets.
6- Boots are darn near required, you can get standard army boots for $10 at Goodwill
7- Extra magazines -
Hicaps- These magazines hold around 300bb's at one time, and require you to wind them every so often.
Midcaps- typically for milsim airsofters. These mags hold around 100bb's and require no winding. You will need a speed loader in order to load them.
Realcaps or lowcaps- these are usually reserved from realmil games. They hold the exact amount that the realsteel counterparts hold (usually 30 or lower).
8- And of course a side arm.
Remember that if you show up to an airsoft game in realtree camo, sneakers, with multicolored .12s, mags in your pockets, an LPEG or springer, etc. that's OK, you can still play the game and have fun. But understand that it is the equivalent of showing up to the Darlington Raceway in a Model T Ford, and naturally people are going to be a bit skeptical. Don't take offense, if you were in their shoes you would too. Just start investing your time and money at improving your airsoft equipment.