First custom aeg build

shadowhawk · Post by **shadowhawk** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:48 pm

I just learned to disassemble and work on ver. 2 gb, and am wanting to build a custom gun. I'm wanting 20-25 rps and about 300ft. accurate range and 350 fps. Here's my current parts list.
-Guarder 6.02mm Interchange Tightbore Barrel 363mm
-Guarder Improved Hopup Bucking
-Prometheus Aero Cylinder Head
-Prometheus Wiring Set for M16 (No Fuse)
-SHS AEG Gear Set - High Speed (16:1 gear ratio - 2013 Edition)
-SHS M4 Air Nozzle
-SHS M4 Hopup Chamber
-SHS Piston - 15 Carbon Steel Teeth Blue
-SHS Red Aluminum Piston Head
-SHS M110 AEG Spring
-will be flat hopped, shimmed, aoe corrected, and have mosfet installed also
Give me your opinions and if this will work for what I want.

2nd Ranger · Post by **2nd Ranger** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:19 pm

Good luck with the 300ft accurate range and 350fps...

shadowhawk · Post by **shadowhawk** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:39 pm

What do you think I could expect?

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Post by **Star_folder** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:37 pm

200ft.

Besides the gun simply being not optimized for accuracy, the quality of the ammo you use, and your abilities as a marksman come greatly into play trying to get bbs out to 300ft or further.

If you want 300ft, you'll need a better barrel, better hop up system at the least.

shadowhawk · Post by **shadowhawk** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:22 pm

I use .25 and possibly soon .30. What barrel and hop up do you recommend?

Post by **Star_folder** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:50 pm

A PDI 6.05 and an ER-hop, if that's the range you are looking for. And you shouldn't use less than .32s for that either.

Romba · Post by **Romba** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:10 pm

Would you really get 300 feet at 350fps even with a PDI and ER hop?

EDIT: a word.

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Skywalker · Post by **Skywalker** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:16 pm

I will stick to my theory that even if you have that range, its completely useless. Someone would have to be taking a nap to allow those shots hit them. For 350fps w/.25g, 200' - 225' is a good target for maximum range.... Which will still require a super PITA amount of hop up work. If you want that range, boost your FPS.

Before people come barking that you can reach 300' with 350 fps................................. That wasn't on your first build. So sit down.

shadowhawk · Post by **shadowhawk** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 4:08 pm

I was hoping to get 300, but I'd be happy with 200. Is my current setup going to be able to preform that way?

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shadowhawk · Post by **shadowhawk** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 4:11 pm

And I'm looking at that pdi and er hop setup.

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Post by **Star_folder** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:08 pm

Your current set up should be able to reach 200ft. I might skip that tbb though. For various reasons, I prefer steel barrels, otherwise I just do stock/brass/cheap. The few barrels I do change are stock CM barrels. They are raw aluminum and corrode like crazy. They still work for barrels, but the performance is really sub par.

shadowhawk · Post by **shadowhawk** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:19 pm

It's a combat machine, and my old tbb corroded a couple months ago and I cleaned it. What barrel would be a good replacement? And the tbb was a madbull 6.03

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crossfire876 · Post by **crossfire876** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:07 am

-Guarder 6.02mm Interchange Tightbore Barrel 363mm
A stock brass barrel polished quite well has served me better than some of the cheaper tightbores. With that said, the aluminum barrel stock in these CM's is kinda pitiful.
-Guarder Improved Hopup Bucking
if you're flat hopping the bucking as it is, why not consider the G&G green that already comes with your combat machine? It's one of my favorite buckings on the market.
-Prometheus Aero Cylinder Head
I'm of the school, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The G&G stock head is nothing to write home about, but with some teflon tape it can seal tightly and provide good performance. Especially in the power setup you are wanting.
-Prometheus Wiring Set for M16 (No Fuse)
You mention wanting a mosfet in the future, but this looks to be a pre-made wiring set without one? This will work great on <9.6v batteries, but if you're interested in 11.1v's, I'd consider another wiring set. Brill has a D6 nano fet for $40, made from the 3034 fet. Steevols and Star are also quite versed in mosfets and could point you in a much better direction than I can.

If you do go for an 11.1v, and don't pick up a computerized mosfet like a BTC chimera or spectre, be prepared to work with some serious overspin. Or learn how to short-stroke gearsets.
-SHS AEG Gear Set - High Speed (16:1 gear ratio - 2013 Edition)
Dom, Star - Is the jury still out on these as far as their durability? I haven't messed with them but can remember the bevel gear being reduced by a mm or so in the gen 2's causing them to strip out easier. Can't remember, but thought there was a 9 and 10 tooth bevel versions of these gears. Point here is just to check their reliabily, they've had a few hiccups in previous gens. But again, at this power factor I find it hard to say you'd strip it out, assuming good gear mesh etc.

What year did you buy your combat machines? I have had 4 over the past two years for various reasons, and the gear slope on the new G&G gears has changed from their old ones, not to mention they are noticably heavier. I had a hard time shimming the noise out of these gears, and ended up dropping a VFC set into my current setup for that reason. However, I've put many, many rounds on their older gears, in mild setups (1.7J @ 18rps ish) with no ill effect. You may be able to save money here as well.

-SHS M4 Air Nozzle
Word on the street for these was that they were a few mm's too long, so the tappet plate couldn't retract far enough to feed. Not sure if this is still an issue or not (assuming you're talking of the metal ones), so you may need to remove a mm or two off the front. Just a heads up.
-SHS M4 Hopup Chamber
I may catch a little for this, but there is nothing wrong with the plastic G&G hop-up that came with your AEG. The wheels "lock" tightly and put consistent, on-axis pressure on the nub. You may see a slight boost in FPS from the right chamber, but to be honest I think any improvement gained by switching will be nominal.

-SHS Piston - 15 Carbon Steel Teeth Blue
-SHS Red Aluminum Piston Head
Good choice on the piston, it's regarded as one of the most durable ones out there. If you're considering staying a <=M120 power, I would consider the 7-tooth SHS piston instead. If you are just learning to tech, you are going to make mistakes. I've ruined my fair share of parts "fake it til I make it" style so to speak. Any sort of compression jam could take your gearset with it instead of just chewing through the piston teeth. Just something to think about.

I'm currently running a Dream Army 7-tooth (SHS rebrand) with a metal VFC head that's running quite well. I would buy the piston from Brill here as well. Brill has a dropdown option to correct AoE (basically shave down the 2nd and part of the 3rd teeth) and epoxy the rack in place for you for less than you can buy the piston itself from the big box stores. That and shipping from the west coast was here in SC within 3 days and was dirt cheap. Good luck getting than from Evike/GI etc.

Even in an SSG (single sector gear), 20-25 rps shouldn't have any pre-engagement issues, but around 30rps on a light spring I start to be more concerned. With you running a full rack piston and a metal head, your piston weight will be quite heavy.

-SHS M110 AEG Spring
Is there a reason you're shooting for 350 fps? If you solely plan to play AOSC games, this puts you in the bottom of the 20ft. There is another ~50 fps that you could take advantage of. You may be better served with an M120. Careful though, most M120's I've pulled out of the wrapper have shot hot. 420-440fps on average before breaking in, meaning you'd float to the 50ft MED.

-will be flat hopped, shimmed, aoe corrected, and have mosfet installed also
flat hop isn't a bad idea. In personal experience, I haven't noticed much difference in flat hops until you start throwing heavy BB's in low power factor builds. But that G&G green in your stock setup can lift some surprisingly heavy BB's. Which is where you will see the bulk of your accuracy increase. It's not a bad way to experiment with your first build, Lord know's I wouldn't suggest an R-hop for the first go-round.

-Things not mentioned, or I overlooked. Either way...

-battery/motor
What battery were you planning on running? Are you opposed to Lipo's? A good 25C constant 7.4v pulling a M110 should get your your RoF numbers assuming you pair it with the right motor. The Lonex A2 or the SHS High Torque to name a few.

If Lipo's aren't your thing, a speed motor paired with a decent 9.6v should get you close to those numbers as well.

With that said, I'm not a huge fan of the SHS, or any sub 20TPA motor, since my SHS (16TPA I think) likes to run much warmer. I throw JG Blues in everything, but they spin MUCH slower than their counterparts. I however have gotten close to 30rps on a M120 in a bearing G&G setup on a 11.1v lipo capable of putting ~50amps. Brill Armory / Clandestine also might have a chaoli >20TPA motor that would work for you.

-bushings/bearings
since you have a combat machines, it came with copper (<-- maybe bronze?) bushings. These things are on the weaker side of bushing strength, and will fail quicker than a steel set. While the setup may run for a quite some time, eventually those will start to oval out. As cheap as 8mm bushings are, I'd strongly consider swapping those out. For full longevity, 8mm solid bushings.

I howver, run 8mm bearings. In my experience, they generally run smoother and quieter than solid bushings. Not to mention my battery life seems to be extended due to less resistance my motor needs to overcome. It's not overwhelming, but it's noticable.

-dampening
You mention correcting AoE, but didn't say how you planned to do it. For your first go at it, G&G's usually correct quite nicely if you'll glue a 1/8" 70d sorbothane pad directly to the rubber bumper on the back of the cylinder head. Just an FYI.

Romba · Post by **Romba** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:15 am

I've got a set of SHS 13:1s in my fn2000 running an SP140. After about 8-10k rounds they are still going great.

I believe 360 is the top of the 20 foot med.

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crossfire876 · Post by **crossfire876** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:33 am

Romba wrote:I believe 360 is the top of the 20 foot med.

It is, just not sure if his 350fps goal is with a .2g or .25g bb. Might have missed that somewhere.

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