AOSC Forum Archive

I have a load out that I want to make and I need the knowledge, experience, and oppinions of the AOSC's technical minds to do so. So please read my plans and tell me what needs changing, any alternate ideas you have, any better ways of accomplishing these goals, and any tips, tricks, and/or techniques you guys may have. But if you have any qualms with the rifle itself, please don't post a suggestion for platform change unless you have and can explain a good reason.

Alright, well here are my reasons, goals, and plans:

The KJW Ruger Mk1 attracted my eye with its potential. There’s a lot of controversy over this gun but it seems that the airsoft community overwhelmingly deems this an ok to grade- A rifle with the right modifications. I have a few ideas with the carbine form; two main plans with two sub groups each:

-The 1st is to use this simply as a carbine and keep it at its stock length.
1. TK Twist build or
2. A more mainstream 350 fps build.
-The 2nd plan is to use this as a semi auto DMR/Sniper platform.
1. TK Twist sniper experiment
2.A more mainstream high power sniper

I also have a plan to use the regular KJW Ruger MK1 in a low power side arm build. Considering I’m lowering the FPS to around 300 anyway, I figured I might as well just make that a TK Twist project considering they make the barrel in Sig P229 lengths which is close if not a fit.
(I have done substantial research on the Takio - Koba Twist inner barrels to know exactly how they work.)

Why I chose this platform:
• Gas (not a fan of motor whine) yet simple (less moving parts)
• Good gas efficiency
• Semi automatic
• Lightweight and small frame
• Good bang/buck ratio (low cost and - if tweaked right - high efficiency)
• Good customization potential
• Can be made into a supremely silent rifle or unique sounding
• Uncommon on the field.

Goals:
• Lower FPS in effect lowering my MED.
• Maintain consistent effective range of cover 150’
• Close and maintain as solid a grouping as possible
• Keep a consistent accuracy throughout the length of its effective range
• Break up the silhouette of the carbine as to keep the rifle from giving away my position
(camo tape or something similar should do well for that)
 
KJW Ruger Mk1 Carbine Mods:

1. Lower FPS/MED:
Using the spring measurements (~1 & 9/32 inches in length (~33 mm), ~7/32 of an inch in outside diameter (~6mm), and 12 coils per inch.) find a weaker springs, to replace the mainspring at a hardware store or hobby shop to lower the FPS to the 320-330 fps range.
2. New inner barrel:
Buy a Takio-Koba twist inner barrel to replace the stock barrel. Lathe the TK twist barrel’s diameter the end to 8mm to fit the MK1 hop up and use the lathe to make grooves for the C-clips, drill a hole for the hop up rubber.
3. Barrel spacer:
Find a brass sleeve at a hardware that was about .010" larger than the barrel so that the inner barrel will still slide smoothly inside. Find several different brass/steel parts to completely fill the inside of the outer barrel. Use aluminum ducting tape to make the brass pieces fit nice and snug inside the outer barrel
4. Add heel to mag release:
Drill into the existing mag release lever and add a small screw, I then molded some JB Kwik Weld around the screw to form the heel.
5. Mock suppressor/amplifier barrel thread:
I think there are adapters that work on the MK1 but don’t work on its barrel extensions. If I decide to use the barrel extension or if there aren’t thread adapters for it, how I’ll custom make one is under decision:
A. file the threads off a king arms VSR-10 -/- adapter and take the O-rings out. Stuff it in with steel epoxy or wrap it with tape so that it slides snugly into the outer barrel.
B. Any other less permanent ideas.
6. Sling mounts:
Drill a hole in the skeleton stock’s back lower corner and loop through a ring for a rear sling mount. (Rings that are used to put together score keeping displays - because they are hinged and click together tightly- or key rings are some choices). Use a UTG Single Picatinny/Weaver Rail Barrel Clamp Mount for a front sling mount and other attachments.

I also have a plan for the pistol form which I may put up later on in this post.

Nothing to say huh? I'm guessing the build is solid?

Either that or nobody has taken the time to read through all of this... Plus wasn't the KJW Ruger already discussed?

Huh, I was sure that I had responded to a thread just like this a few days ago....

Anyway, I'm going to assume you are talking about the Carbine MK1, and not the Ruger MK1. You talk about using "the carbine" throughout the whole post, but mention the Ruger within the first few posts.

The build looks fine to me. I still question the effectiveness of TK twist barrels, but I've never seen anything to say they are any worse than the tightbores we already have. I do know you should concentrate on your hop up, as that is where most of your accuracy will come from.

I suggest against a DMR build with this base. Unless you tap the mags and use HPA, you will have consistency issues enough so that you will have more trouble than AEGs to hit targets. I'd also like to say that motor whine, in AEGs, can be eliminated through tuning. There are several people out there who can attest to this.

jrleonard wrote:Either that or nobody has taken the time to read through all of this... Plus wasn't the KJW Ruger already discussed?

I don't see where the inconsistancy issues will come from. Is that just a common issue with lowering FPS in gas guns? And if so can it be solved with a new valve set?

And I do know you can reduce the motor whine but it seems to depend soley on the gun or really the grip in many cases. Rifles like the ICS Sig 552 for example have a loud motor whine which I believe is due to the openess of the grip. So far the only answers I've found on the matter are surrounding the motor with insulating material which can potententially cause damage to the motor right?

Gas guns are less consistent than AEGs, with HPA being the only exception. Just with the nature of gas, and how it works in the system, it won't be as consistent as an AEG.

Under prolonged, and strenuous use, yes, insulation can damage motors due to heat build up. However, even guns like sigs or M4s and be made quieter by simply shimming and padding the cylinder head. But that's not what this thread is about.

Ah k. Well under a bit more research I found that one source of inconsistancy with this rifle is that each shoot causes the mag to cool very rapidly, so quick consecutive shots would be innacurate. So while gas guns are less consistant generally, I know what not to do to make it worse lol.

I figure at this point I'll use the stock barrel length and get a precision inner barrel (considering I'll have to lathe it to fit, it might ruin a TK twist barrel. I'll save that for another project.) The only issue I have at this point is that the inner barrel length for this gun is hard as as heck to find!
That would be the last factor before I start aquiring eveything.