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HELP

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:24 pm
by Chad
I got a new gun for Christmas and it keeps on blowing fuses. Will yall help me.

Its a M4 from JG. JG M733 Commando Full Metal Gearbox AEG Rifle - TIGHT BORE ONE PIECE BARREL - NEWEST ENHANCED 2010 MODEL
A 8.4 battery.

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/JG_Airsoft_M733_Commando_AEG_Full_Metal_Gearbox_p/jg-f6601.htm

Re: HELP

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:29 pm
by Dominum
How many rounds does it take to blow them, what battery are you using, who is the mnftr, what model is it, etc.?

[mod]You need to include more detail in tech question posts.[/mod]

Depending on various factors, it is likely that the motor is mounted too tight, it is shimmed too tight, or something along those lines. Give us as much detail as possible.

Re: HELP

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:37 pm
by Dominum
How many rounds will it fire before it blows, and does it sound louder than other AEGs, like a grating or scraping noise?

Re: HELP

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:46 pm
by Chad
It will shoot about 2 rounds then is blows up. No its not loud. Sometimes it doesn't make any noises it just blows up.

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:43 am
by Esteban
Red and black wiring could be switched....

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:34 am
by Dominum
If it's managing to shoot a couple times then it's not backwards. It's either shimmed absurdly tight, or something is jammed (broken teeth, foreign matter in teeth, etc.) It's a serious problem though. Do not attempt to fire it anymore, if you don't know how to work on gearboxes take it to a tech, unless the motor is mounted really high (which it must not be, or it would be really loud and make a screeching sort of sound when fired), then it is a problem in the gearbox that needs professional diagnosis and repair.

http://www.southcarolinaairsoft.com/forums/http://www.southcarolinaairsoft.com/newforums/viewtopic.php?t=9

The only other tech in the state (other than people that only do it for friends) that I know of is Grimwulf, not sure what he charges but I know he does excellent quality work and is a good guy. Battlecats in Anderson SC does tech work, but I would not reccomend them as their prices are high and several of my recent tech orders have been to fix the mistakes they made.

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:27 pm
by severed
Seeing as you just got this a couple weeks ago, I'd try to return it.  If that is not an option then, well you're going to have to pay someone to troubleshoot it and fix the problem.  This could end up costing you 1/2 of what you got the gun for! 

I haven't seen a stock gun shimmed that tight, usually the opposite and they are sloppy as hell but you never know.  Motor height, as mentioned, short in the wiring, usually in the grip from the wires not being positioned properly or just inside the mech box and the pinion scraped the insulation off the + wire.  Could also be a bad battery or motor and one or the other just isn't strong enough to pull the 120 they say is in it.

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:28 pm
by Dominum
On that note, I read the ad and you should hope it's not over 400, or you'll be using it in semi, and even if it's not you can't use it in CQB like it says unless you drop in an M100 or less.
now features a tight-bore metal ONE PIECE BARREL for maximum accuracy and performance
I LOLed... All barrels are one piece!

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:46 pm
by Esteban
A tech at Battlecats ended up switching the red and black wires (no idea how...) that come from the back of my gearbox to the fuse and into my cranestock. He was able to get a couple of shots off before the fuse blew. I watched him do it when I came to pick it up. I ended up taking it home anyway and found the wires in the buffer tube were switched. I switched them back, heat shrunk the wires, and grabbed a new fuse. He blew through 6 fuses trying to get it to work.

My gun worked after I had switched the wires back, but the motor was going bad already. I called them up, explained what happened, and they ordered me a new motor.

You can get a couple of shots off and then blow a fuse if Vcc and gnd are switched, but it's not pretty.

Has this problem happened since you opened the box? Who knows... some Chinese man or kid could have switched them without knowing upon assembly.


I wonder what tightbore was put in it.... if they think 6.08mm is a tightbore  :P

Re: HELP

Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 3:04 pm
by Dominum
I hate to break it to you, but if the wiring is reversed that is simply impossible. When the wiring is reversed the motor spins in reverse, and the anti reversal latch stops it. Assuming the anti reversal latch wasn't there than the gears would simply spin backwards and ram against the rear piston tooth until the motor stopped, the fuse blew, or a tooth broke. It is simply not possible in any way for an AEG to fire even once when the wiring is backwards (and thus polarities are switched on the motor), as it is mechanically disinclined to do so.

Re: HELP

Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:09 pm
by severed
Dominum wrote: I hate to break it to you, but if the wiring is reversed that is simply impossible. When the wiring is reversed the motor spins in reverse, and the anti reversal latch stops it. Assuming the anti reversal latch wasn't there than the gears would simply spin backwards and ram against the rear piston tooth until the motor stopped, the fuse blew, or a tooth broke. It is simply not possible in any way for an AEG to fire even once when the wiring is backwards (and thus polarities are switched on the motor), as it is mechanically disinclined to do so.
pure truth, gearbox will just be locked up or you'll strip the pinion or bevel gear but you need a hell of a motor and battery to do that.

OP, what kind of fuse have you been putting in after you blow them?  You using the right amp fuse?

Re: HELP

Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 4:16 pm
by Esteban
Dominum wrote: I hate to break it to you, but if the wiring is reversed that is simply impossible. When the wiring is reversed the motor spins in reverse, and the anti reversal latch stops it. Assuming the anti reversal latch wasn't there than the gears would simply spin backwards and ram against the rear piston tooth until the motor stopped, the fuse blew, or a tooth broke. It is simply not possible in any way for an AEG to fire even once when the wiring is backwards (and thus polarities are switched on the motor), as it is mechanically disinclined to do so.

That's what completely stumped me... although I did not test it firing a round; I just listened. No idea what happened, but I switched it back, and it works.

It could have been an exposed wire I did heat shrink back to normal...

Sorry if I'm distracting from the topic, but I do hope you get your gun fixed, Chad.

Re: HELP

Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:32 am
by Vesper
Dom, I think he was referring to one piece "outer" barrel.

Re: HELP

Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 12:25 pm
by Tzer1993
Vesper wrote: Dom, I think he was referring to one piece "outer" barrel.
Dom was referring to the actual title Airsoftmegastore gave the gun 8)